The plan, objectives and ethos

The trip was be self reliant, attempting to summit previously unclimbed peaks in a pure alpine style; leaving no trace.

The trip was exploratory in nature, and aimed to open up new climbing areas, summit virgin peaks, and increase the awareness for british exploration, and help to bring tourism to a struggling area of the world.

An Expedition Parton Mike 'twid' Turner FMGA mountain guide: ''Good luck lads, looks like a great area, spend lots of time researching, have fun, enjoy the journey and the people, pull hard and live dangerously''

Friday, 13 August 2010

Torugart-too beta......

Approching the torugart-too

Getting information on such a remote area is difficult! so here is what I know:
The torugart-too boarder china, next to the torugart pass (an old silk trading route from china) and for part of the tien shan mountain range; in the east of kyrgyzstan.
Their similar in size to the Swiss Valais, (yet higher in altitude) the mountains stretch for around 35km in length.
There have been at least 5 expeditions that have ventured into the area (not all climbing), the majority of the mountains remain un-climbed.

The mountains range generally from 4700-5108m, and have many significant rocky foothills.
Kyrgyzstan is an ex-Ussr country, during the soviet reign of mountaineering foriegn climbers were not allowed access and the torugart-too area was disregarded by the elitist climbing attitudes of the Russians. Therefore the 'forbidden mountains' remained un-seen and climbed.
The reports of the rock give varying quality, lower limestone crags maybe more solid, some rocky peaks such as 'rock dragon' 4597m have prevented previous attempts due to poor rock quality.

Weather is Bishkek is warm ~20-24 C during the day always Sunny no rain. In the mountain it is ~20C during a sunny day 15-17C on a cloudy overcast day and~ 7C at night. (these temps are ~ value for basecamp @ about 3800 meters) Each day usually it rains low and may snow at higher elevations. Weather usually rolls in each day around 2-3 and hangs around till 6-7 with scattered showers rolling through for 5-15 min at a time. The pattern usually at higher elevations was clear day, overcast for 2-3 days with the afternoon rolling showers followed by one long day of snow all day then a day or two clear, and repeat.

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